PressDecember 7, 2003 WINTER RIDES
With preparation and the right gear, cyclists can bike year-round ICE CYCLING Riding in winter can be very cool Come first snows, your average Colorado cyclist typically replaces the space in his garage reserved for skis with his bike. After all, what's more exciting, carving through fresh powder or slogging through slush and mud? Unless you're a psycho cyclist who actually installs No. 2 screws in his tires to serve as studs, you know the answer. OK, so winter biking might not rank up there with skiing or snowboarding, but does your bike deserved to be imprisoned in the garage all winter? "I'd say 50 percent to 60 percent of those who ride in summer don't ride in winter,'' said Matthew Smith, a year-round rider who is race manager of Team Rio Grande. "People still think of it as primarily a summer endeavor. Those people above riding for transportation but below racing, they're snowboarders and skiers and so when it snows, they're going to the slopes.'' Without question, the No. 1 reason cyclists hang up their bikes in winter is the cold. But with today's clothing technology, keeping out the cold is largely a moot point, save for those really raw days. In fact, it's not temperature that makes winter cycling more of a hassle, but our intermittent snows and the wet conditions. "The biggest misconception about winter cycling here is that it's so cold you'll freeze,'' Smith said. "You can ride 365 days of the year here, which is why Fort Collins rocks.'' The same layering system required to enjoy any snowsport is all you'll need to enjoy winter cycling. That means if you play outdoors in winter, you'll probably have most of the gear you'll need to enjoy winter biking. Let's start at the top and work our way to the toes. *Head - Fleece skullcaps with built-in headbands worn under your helmet can help keep your head warm while wicking moisture away. Skullcaps can be worn under ski, snowboard, climbing and biking helmets. They start around $20. Hands - Your fingers and toes are the most difficult to keep warm. Ski gloves with or without specific areas to keep heat packs work fine. Just make sure they aren't too thick, which can retard sensitivity to steering. Or you can purchase cycling-specific gloves that have long cuffs to protect your wrists. These start at $20. For really cold rides, you might invest in lobster-style gloves that can fit over thin gloves. *Upper body - A polypropylene or capelene shirt, such as a summer cycling jersey, is your first line of defense. This layer is there to wick moisture away from the skin during those long uphills so you don't freeze on those windy downhills. These start at $20. Depending on the temperature, the next line is a fleece layer to provide warmth. This layer can come as thin as a shirt or as thick as a jacket and with or without sleeves. Various thickness gives you options to match the temperature. These start at $30. The top layer is usually made out of Gore-Tex or some other nylon blend and is there to protect you from wind and moisture. When choosing this layer, Shawn Brooks, an avid Fort Collins cyclist and owner of the Cycologist, a custom bike-fitting shop, advises not to skimp. "There is a big difference between water-resistant and waterproof,'' said Brooks, who prefers jackets made by Red Face. "In my experiences, water-resistant is a waste of time. It's just enough to give you a false sense of confidence. You may spend $75 to $150 on a waterproof jacket compared to a $20 water-resistant top, but with the $20 top, you risk freezing to death.'' Brooks said cycling-specific jackets can make your ride more comfortable than if you opt for a universal top. He said cycling-specific tops include Velcro cuffs, longer arms to protect wrists from the elements and lower tail sections to keep your rump dry. Pit vents and additional zippers to allow you to control your temperature are beneficial. *Legs - You can use the layering system on your legs with any number of options available depending on what you own and what temperatures you'll be riding in. This can include Lycra shorts (starting at $30), followed by polypropylene or capelene long underwear (starting at $40) and topped by nylon techno-pants (starting at $60) that keep out wind and rain. Bib-style pants help keep your slick pants from falling. These work well for men but are more of a hassle for women when it comes to bathroom breaks. Same rule applies to your pants as it does to your jacket - go for waterproof, not water-resistant. Another option is to skip layering and go with a middleweight Lycra layer that is warm to about 20 degrees. *Feet - Booties (starting at $35) are nice, but they wear out quickly, especially if forced to hike-a-bike. Brooks believes there are two better options: Wear neoprene socks under your cycling shoes, which are cheap, keep you dry and are relatively warm, or shell out the money for cycling-specific winter boots. Brooks paid $180 for his boots made by Lake. "Feet are the limiting factor for most riders,'' Brooks said. "I invested the money in boots because I think it will open up some new temperature zones and that's worth it for me." Add a pair of snap-on fenders to keep the water, slush, mud off of you and you're good to go. However, before taking your good bike out for a winter spin, be advised that the wear and tear your bike will take in winter compared to summer riding is measurable. That's because of the mixture of moisture and muck you'll find this time of year. If you're a mountain biker, you can reduce the wear and tear on your bike and the trails by riding in the morning when the trails are still frozen. So go ahead, pull out the skis or snowboard from your garage and put your good bike away. Just remember to grab that old bike so you can tool around this winter. "Hey, the biggest thing about winter cycling is don't knock it until you've tried it,'' Brooks said. "You can golf year-round in Fort Collins, so why can't you bike year-round? Once you get going, you'll find it's quite nice.'' COLD HANDS AND FEET Cold hands and feet are a common problem in winter biking. Here's how to defeat the problems: *Buy a pair of winter-specific riding shoes in a half size larger than normal. *If that's not in the financial picture, try a pair of thin neoprene socks or a pair of wool socks, which are preferable to shoe covers since they don't wear out like covers after the first few rides. *Buy a pair of gloves that have a removable liner, or lobster gloves to go over top. *On exceptionally cold days, put a heat pack in your gloves. Some gloves even have a pocket designed for this. WINTER BIKE CARE Mud, dirt, sand, water and salt all can muck up your bike during winter rides. Here's how to keep the grime away: *Do your rides in the early morning when the ground is frozen. *Avoid riding on the road for a few days after a heavy application of sand is applied. *After a dirty ride, rinse your bike with a garden hose, then scrub with a sponge and bucket of warm soapy water. *If grime is particularly bad, the low pressure of a car wash may be used. Avoid direct spraying of the bearings. *After rinsing, bounce the bike on the ground to shake off the majority of water. Then give it a wipe with an absorbent towel, making sure to dry off all the nooks and crannies. *After drying the chain, apply a winter lube such as Finish Line Cross-Country then rewipe the chain. Wiping away excess will keep the chain from attracting more grime. *Finish it off with a polish, such as Lemon Pledge, which makes the bike shine and also keeps dirt from sticking. The Cycologist (www.thecycologist.com) TRACTION TALK *In the snow, a wide tire with widely spaced knobs is recommended. *Studded tires are effective, if you will be riding in snow or ice exclusively. *You can make your own studded tires by inserting No. 2 machine screws through a tire. Use an old tube between the screw heads and the inflated tube to prevent flats. *In the snow, use low tire pressure, between 25 and 40 PSI. http://users.rcn.com/ icebike/whybike.htm AVOIDING DISASTER *Streets are slickest when it first begins to rain or snow. Don't race to beat the heavy stuff. *Manhole covers, leaves and metal bridges are particularly slick and dangerous when wet. *Fresh snow makes traction difficult. *Potholes, cracks and railroad crossings are bad enough when dry, pay special attention to them in winter. http://mountainbike .about.com SAFE DRIVING PRACTICES When it is wet or icy out: *Try to pedal smoothly and relax your upper body, especially on ice and soft snow. *Pump the brakes, as skidding decreases control. *Ride more slowly, keeping your weight stable and on the back wheel. *Don't lean into turns as much. *Stay the course and keep pedaling through heavy snow because momentum will keep you upright. *Follow the ruts created by cars after a snow, avoiding ridges that can deflect the front wheel and cause a spill. *Lowering your seat can help you drop your feet down and help maintain balance and better use your feet as emergency brakes. *On some soft trails, higher speeds take less effort than lower speeds, because your tires sink into the snow less at higher speed. *When the bike starts going sideways, make small corrections rather than over-steering and weaving down the trail. http://mountainbike.about.com Coloradoan library FROZEN TRAILS: If you're going to ride your bike in the winter, make sure the trails are frozen or dry. Courtesy Mike Curiak TOTAL ACCESS: Winter biking has one big advantage over summer biking - trails and roads are far less crowded. V. Richard Haro/The Coloradoan ROAD TRIP: Paved roads around Horsetooth Reservoir make for an ideal winter ride. MILES BLUMHARDT -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |